Independent local picks with useful details, thoughtful context and recently checked information.
Malamatenia fills a narrow back lane near its namesake church with teal shutters, old photographs and small pavement tables. Pilgrims, residents and families order kleftiko in parchment, grilled calamari, caper salad, lamb chops and baked aubergine at prices below Chora's newer dining rooms.
Mikro Karavi opens through a narrow passage into a plant-covered courtyard on Trion Ierarchon, away from Chora's port road. Couples settle under basket lamps for seasonal Greek cooking: spinach pie, grilled squid, beef with cracked wheat and local louza appear without taverna-sized repetition.
Myrtilo runs all day from a restored storehouse near the lower stretch of the road to Panagia Evangelistria. Families and mixed-age groups stop for pancakes, eggs, coffee and chocolate pie, then return after the church crowds thin for beer and larger bistro plates.
